The Wine Editorial

July 2001 Issue

The French Revolution

In my fifty or so years as a wino I have seen the world of wine explode. In the beginning the focus was French, but under the weight of a century, and more, of tradition, the bad often outweighed the good. There was corruption and there was fraud. (Is there none now?) There were few wine critics and virtually no vehicles for their criticism. California was in the stone-age,we tend to forget, but through the seventies, even into the eighties, "Chablis" and "Hearty Burgundy" reigned supreme. In the seventies there was virtually no Chardonnay-virtually no varietals. The likes of BV and Inglenook were essentially unknown-beyond the ken, and the pocket, of the common man who drank beer or cocktails-if at all. Chianti came in a straw covered flasks. There were Barolos but many were undrinkable, young or old. Spanish wines if you ever came across them were redolent of oak. There was no shortage of bad Bordeaux in any price range.

The wine awakening began in California, in the early sixties, and the father of that awakening was a Russian émigré, Andre Tchelistcheff. He was hired, in 1938, by a Frenchman, Georges de Latour, founder, in 1900, of Beaulieu Vineyard. He brought modern wine-making to Beaulieu, making it the most prestigious California winery until 1969 when it was purchased by Heublein, the alcoholic beverage giant that reduced another pioneer California winery-Inglenook-to a "bag-in-box" image. As a consulting oenologist, Tchelistcheff revolutionized Californian wine- making and he inspired the dentists, doctors, accountants and hobbyists who started boutique wineries that put Californian wines on the map and inexorably changed American, and perhaps the world's, drinking habits.

The Californian wine awakening culminated, in Paris on May 24, 1976 when, in a blind tasting of 20 wines, the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars '73 Cabernet, and the Chateau Montelena '73 Chardonnay, beat the best of France-the wine shot that echoed around the world.

The quarter century since then has seen a revolution in the world of wine. In 1973, and one hundred and more years before then, wine was being produced in Australia, Argentina, Algeria, Chile, South Africa, Southern Italy, Spain, Uruguay, and the Rhone Valley. In the south of France, hillside vineyards first established by the Romans, had long since been abandoned, replaced by prolific plonk from overcropped, coastal plain vineyards. But nobody in the world at large, knew or cared.

Now we can choose excellent, affordable wines from all of those places and many more.

I remember vividly, the BV wines of the late '60's and '70's-I still have a few bottles of those and other great California Cabernets. Many of them are still drinking beautifully. And I can still taste the '79 Ch. Montelena Chardonnay-in memoriam, that is. The last bottles where only shadows of their former selves. With those recollections, I trust you will understand why I think, as many of you know, that with few exceptions, Californian wines, and perhaps Australian wines, have lost their way, dominated now by marketing giants, driven by the bottom line.

There is no doubt that California sparked the World Wine Revolution-the Californian, fruit- oriented, style has influenced wine making everywhere, even in France. While much has been written and said of late about the Californian influence on bastions of French oenology, like Bordeaux, I believe that there has been a much broader and more pervasive change in French wine-making, I call it the French Revolution.

The French Revolution began in the south, more as a result of the challenge of the Common Market some twenty years ago than as a result of a global wine awakening. The south of France is probably the largest wine-growing region in the world. It also produced some of the world's worst drunk by the French. Common Market wine from Spain and Italy threatened to wipe out the low-end French wine industry concentrated in the south-the Midi. So the government, using a carrot and a stick forced a monumental change in where and how grapes were grown, what varietals were used and how the wine was made.

The French Revolution has produced nothing less than an avalanche of great, affordable wine, not only from the Midi but from virtually every wine growing region of France. This has taken place virtually before my eyes-in the 16 years that I have owned the Madison Wine Shop. It is the source of my most pressing problem-no place to put the irresistible bargains that I am finding daily-an embarrassment apparent to everyone who enters the store (one recent Saturday, we could find no place to put the hand truck-except outside the back door). As a consequence of this abundance I am unabashedly a Franco-oenophile, and for very good reason.

Once considered the Rhone valley apart from the Midi, but I now look upon both as one big Wine Garden of Eden. Geographically, it is divided into five parts-northern Rhone, southern Rhone, and the Mediterranean arc starting at the Spanish border and ending at the Italian border-Roussillon, Languedoc and Provence. I might even include the southwest, Gascony, in this Garden, except that it is different in that it is under the influence of the Atlantic, not the Mediterranean.

Northern Rhone
The Rhone river is the "Mississippi" of France, draining east-central France, and the French Alps into the Mediterranean.

The steep banks of the northern Rhone, starting south of Lyon, are home to some of the world's greatest wines-even to this day, frequently under-appreciated and under-priced. There are a handful of whites, some remarkable, but the reds, all Syrah, are the stars. Here is a Rick's Picks sampling. Many more in the store.

Cote Rotie
Cote Rotie-the "roasted slope"-steep, terraced, south-east facing vineyards, plunging down to the Rhone river, offer maximum exposure to the sun and ideal soil and climate for Syrah, producing some of the world's greatest wines.

Guigal , '87, $35.00/31.50; '88, $33.99/30.59; '89, $31.99/28.79
Chapoutier, '91, $39.00/35.10 These older wines are incredible bargains.
Clusel-Roch, '97, $37.99/34.19
Gerin '97, $70.00/63.00 Even now, this is monumental. In a few more years -Wow!

Hermitage
Hermitage, from the famous hill behind the town of Tain. Syrah at its very best. Wine at its very best.

Jaboulet, La Chapelle,
'91,$65.00/58.50;
'94, $60.00/54.00;
'95, $84.99/76.49

Crozes-Hermitage
And from the lower slopes of the Hermitage hill, Crozes-Hermitage

Chapoutier '95, Les Varonniers, $75.00/67.50
Combier '97, $18.99/17.09 Stunning wine-Stunning price.

Cornas
The wines of Cornas, were renowned at the time of Charlemagne and again the 18th century, but these rocky, southern-facing, terraced slopes fell into disrepair. A revival, starting in the late 1980's, has brought increasing numbers of glorious new wines. Syrah! Syrah!

Domaine Courbis '96, Champelrose, $25.99/23.39
Jaboulet '96, St Pierre, $65.00/58.50
Voge '94, Vieilles Vignes, $34.99/31.49
Perraud '96, Les Genets, $35.99/32.394 A fantastic treat!

Saint Joseph

Dom Courbis '96, $17.99/16.79
Desirat '98, $22.99/20.79

Southern Rhone
The southern Rhone valley is a flood plain, bounded on the east by the Montmirail mountains on whose rocky, mineral-laden slopes, lie the Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Rasteau and Sablet appellations. If you would like to know more about the fascinating "terroir" of these appellations, visit www.rickspicks.com and go to the Archives.
These glorious wines are almost always blends-usually Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre; sometimes along with some obscure varietals such as Counoise.

Gigondas
Gigondas has long been my favorite appellation and we probably have more of them than any other AOC.

Brusset, Les Hautes Montmirail;
'94 $24.99/22.49;
'97, $34.99/31.49;
'98, $30.99/27.89;
'99, $39.99/35.99
All those Brussets-no accident!

Signature '90, $21.99/19.79 From Cave Gigondas, the co-op winery one of my greatest treasures.
Domaine Raspail '86, $24.99/22.49
Goubert '91, $18.99/17.09 A steal! A steal!
Santa Duc '95, $22.99/20.69
Domaine Pallieres '95 Gigondas, $26.99/24.29
St Cosme '95, $16.99/15.29 Another steal.
Dom Cayron '98, $22.99/ 20.69 Faraud, wine-maker/owner-legend like Brusset
Fontange '94 VV, $15.99/14.39 The best buy in the store!

Rasteau
Rasteau is hardly a household name, but it will pay to remember it!

Masson '98, Paul Emile, $16.99/15.29
Piaugier '94, Montmartel, $13.99/12.59
Beaurenard '96, $14.99/13.49; '98, $16.99/15.29 Get to know these intense, awesome wines at equally awesome prices.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Chateauneuf-du-Pape, long the most well-known wine of the Rhone, comes from a "bump" in the flood plain to the west of the river. Many wonderful wines, although "name!recognition" often permits higher prices than other comparable Rhones. Choose from:

Dom de Galet
'94 Vieilles Vignes, $27.99/25.19;
'97 Tradition, $23.99/21.59;
'98, $26.99/24.29;
'98, Vieilles Vignes, $32.99/29.69

I am impressed with the wines of Domaine du Galet. They have three distinctly different wines. The regular CNDP, a Tradition and a Vieilles Vignes. The Tradition is made, without destemming the grapes. While it is more tannic, I find it wonderfully layered and complex. The "regular" bottling, on the other hand reflects a "modern" approach to a more accessible wine with softer tannins and more up-front fruit, and the Vieilles Vignes is made in the same manner but with grapes from old vines, offering a richer, more complex, yet approachable wine.

Beaucastel, '85, $55.00/49.50;
'86, $39.99/35.99;
'88, $40.00/36.00;
'90, $55.00 /49.50;
'94, $38.00/34.20;
'95, $49.99/44.99;
'96, $48.00/43.20;
'97, $55.00/49.50

I have waxed poetic before about Beaucastel-impeccable wines, and I cannot in all fairness complain about their prices. They are fair.

Elizabeth Chambellan '94 , $34.99/31.49 This special Cuvee from Pere Caboche will assail you with rich ripe fruit, offset by soft tannins. A hedonistic treat.
Domaine Solitude '98, $23.99/21.59 Our most popular CNDP!
Beaurenard '98, $26.99/24.29; '98, Boisrenard, $48.99/44.09
I find Domaine Beaurenard's wines irresistible. They are incredibly complex, offering what I can only describe as a hedonistic, vinous orgy. When "I raid the loft", the Boiserenard is near the top of my list.
Brunel '96 Les Cailloux, $31.99/ 28.79
Vieux Telegraphe, '96, $37.99/34.19;
'97, $32.99/29.69;
'98, $35.99/32.39

Chapoutier '96 La Bernardine, $22.99/20.69
Dom Du Pegau '97, $33.00/29.70
Bonneau '88 Marie Beurre, $75.00/75.00 and '89 Marie Beurre, $85.00/85.00. Legendary wines!
Ch Cabrieres '99, $20.99/18.89. A bargain!
Clos des Papes '95,$24.99/22.49
Dom De La Mordoree '95, $27.99/25.19
St Benoit '95 Grande Garde, $22.99/20.69

Cote du Rhone
The Cote du Rhone appellation is the broadest Rhone AOC, covering a vast array of producers, and styles. The wines are mostly inexpensive, mostly great values and imminently quaffable. A few are expensive and, generally, deservedly so. There a blurry distinction between Cote du Rhone and what Robert Parker calls "Esoteric Rhones", appellations such as Lirac, Cote Ventoux and Coststieres de Nimes. They are more properly labeled Languedoc, but who cares-they all offer pleasure for not much money.

Dom Solitude '99, $8.99/8.09 The low-priced gem in this array of lovely affordable wines
Guigal '98 , $9.99/8.99
Clement '98 Lorennes, $9.99/ 8.99
Mordoree '99, $9.99/8.9944
Brusset '96 Cairanne, $10.99/9.89 Yes, the Brusset from Gigondas.
Vidal Fleury '95, $9.99/8.99
Chaume-Arnaud '98 Vinsobres, $13.99/37.77 Do not let the Cote du Rhone appellation/price-point fool you. This is wonderful!
Dom Brunel '96, $11.99/10.79
Grand Veneur Vieilles Vignes, '95 $11.99/10.79; '94, $11.99/10.79 Two more outstanding wines, that outperform their AOC
Beaucastel Coudoulet, '96, $21.99/19.79; '98, $25.99/23.39 Of course Coudoulet is not exactly "low-priced", but then its not your everyday Cotes du Rhone.
Brusset '99 Cotes Ventoux, $9.99/8.99
Dom Fondreche '99 Cotes Ventoux, $9.99/8.99. Both Cote Ventoux are bright, light, friendly and happy wines. Like summer sunshine.

Languedoc
Languedoc, pronounced "lang d'oc", means, literally, "the language of Oc", the language which was spoken by the early inhabitants of the region. Occtian words show up in many names and places-for example "Cantaussel" the Domaine name of a fabulous Syrah wine on our shelves, means "the place where the bird sings".

Languedoc lies to the west of the Rhone delta. It includes a broad, swampy coastal plain which rises into the foothills and heights of France's Central Massif to the north. It produces a staggering amount of wine-one third of the total French output, but little more than10% of its AC (appellation controle) wine.

"Terroir", an untranslatable French word, encompasses those characteristics, such as soil, climate and solar exposure, that influence the quality of wine produced in a particular place. In general, hillsides are better than plains, high elevation is better than low, barren soil is better than rich, and, in the northern hemisphere, a southern exposure is best.

The low, sometimes swampy, coastal plain of Languedoc, is not considered good terroir. That, and the allegedly "low-life" Carignan grape (I say "allegedly" because Carignan can and does produce good wine.), were responsible for oceans of French plonk that gave Languedoc, and most of the south its deservedly bad reputation. But Languedoc covers a large area with widely varying topography. The coastal plain, studded with a few mountain peaks, rises gradually to the north and east, meeting the hills and mountains of the Cevennes,-the French Central Masif-great terroir.. In fact, places like Pic Saint Loup, are the site of some of the earliest vineyards in France, going back to Roman times around 125 BC, if not earlier.

The French Revolution that I perceive, is taking places on the sides of these mountain peaks and foothills. It is fueled by innovative people, some well-heeled, some just simple farmers, using modern wine-growing know-how to produce first-class wines, primarily from Syrah, which does best in micro-climates that offer hot days and cool nights, and by Grenache, sometimes alone, but often in blends with Mourvedre and a few other varietals.

The French Revolution that I perceive, is taking places on the sides of these mountain peaks and foot- hills
One measure of the extent of the revolution is the number of government-sanctioned Appellations Origine Controle that did not exist 20 years ago. AOCs are the top classification of a highly successful, potentially protectionist, government administered system for controlling the quality of wine and its presentation to the consumer. When I first visited Languedoc in 1981, there were no AOCs, only a sea of vines, prompting my question-"how many vines per Frenchman?" (We recently estimated the figure at somewhere between 400 and 800-any more accurate estimates out there?).

Minervoise, Corbieres and the catchall Coteaux du Languedoc were the first wines of note. All three were elevated to AOC status in 1985. The AOC's of St-Chinian and Faugeres, now special (and higher) appellations of Coteaux du Languedoc, were established in 1982. My efforts to determine exactly how many AOC's there are now in Languedoc, let alone Roussillon and Provence have been terminated due to lack of time. I can only judge from the AOC's in the MWS database-between 30 and 50. The wines of Minervoise and Corbieres found places on our shelves back in the '80s, but they were not in our original database.

Minervoise
If there is a breeding ground for this French Revolution, it has to be in Minervoise. Our first Minervoise wine, and now a permanent fixture at MWS, was Ch d 'Oupia. Price and quality are consistently exciting and the wines respond to bottle aging and/or aeration. In fact we try to keep at least a year ahead of each vintage release, trying to add an extra year of bottle age before it is sold. Ch d 'Oupia '99 Minervois, $7.99/7.1944, one of the greatest bargains in the store. D 'Oupia '98 "Les Barons", $15.99/14.79 is a knockout, upscale bottling that I could not resist.

In 1996 we discovered the wines of Maurice Piccinini from the town of La Liviniere-in old Occitan "viniera" is "a place planted with vines". The Piccinini's came from Piedmont, Italy, in 1913 and started growing wine in Minervoise. Piccinini '97 Clos d'Angely, $11.99/10.79 and Le Grand Terroir '96, $12.99/11.69, are stunning wines that are getting even better with bottle age. Both wines were made by Maurice Piccinini who is considered one of the leading lights of La Liviniere and who bears some of the credit for the elevation, in 1999, of La Liviniere to AOC status. The seal of the appellation, embossed on the bottle capsules, includes the image of the town's bell tower.

The quality of La Liviniere wines stems not only from the dedication of its winemakers but from its terroir-its soil and climate-and particularly its elevation, ensuring cool nights following hot days that produce Syrah at its best. In fact elevation defines the limits of the Appellation.

The highlight of our Whirlwind Winery Tour this past March was our visit to La Liviniere and specifically to Domaine la Combe Blanche. The owner, and wine-making genius, is a young Belgian, Guy Vanlancker. The "Domaine"-his winery-a make-shift, low-budget conglomeration of tanks and barrels-is shoe-horned into an ancient building on a narrow street in the middle of the medieval hillside town. You enter at the bottom level, on one street, and if you are bold enough to climb three levels of rickety stairs you will be able to exit the top level onto the next street up the hill.

There are many showy "big-buck" wineries that do not, or cannot, make wine like this. Vanlancker's wines are remarkable. A great number of you are already fans of his wine but you don't know it. He is the wine-maker for Domaine Cantaussel, (place of the singing bird-remember?) whose '96 Pic St. Martin, $19.99/17.99, you carried away by the case-scores of them. A graphical image of that wine is branded into my brain-"a dark, impenetrable, brooding blob fills my mouth-aerate to enter and enjoy oodles of delicious, dark smoky fruit". Except for a couple of cases that I have expropriated, it will probably be gone by the time you read this.

The '98 Domaine Cantaussel from the same magic vineyard, now elevated to the La Liviniere AOC, and to a $29.99/27.99??? price, which it justly deserves, is a different bottle of wine. Without any effort on your part, fruit, spice and tannin, in one enormous symphony, will assail your palate, and lift your spirit. Try it!

Only space prevented me from buying each of Vanlancker's wines. By mid-July, I expect to be able offer you (with Saturday tastings, of course) these two wonderful wines-Domaine Combe Hautes Minervoise '99, 50% Carignan, 50% Cinsault, $13.99/12.59 and Domaine la Combe Blanche, '99, Minervoise Chandelliere, $29.99/27.99 , 60% Syrah aged 18 months in new oak, and 40% Grenache, no oak. These wines will speak for themselves, and what is more you can taste them with Guy Vanlancker, in person, on Saturday 18 August from 2pm till 7pm. Be there!

Also, on our March trip we tasted and bought the wines of another La Liviniere leading light-Chateau Massamier la Mignarde. Big, big, dense, scrumptious elixirs of life.

The first, labeled Domaine Massamier '99 Expression de Carignan , is not La Liviniere AC because it is 100% Carignan. But what Carignan! Whoever called Carignan a low-life grape?

Never again will I disparage that varietal. "Expression" has a stunning label, carries the appellation Cotes de Pepieux, and is one of the most, hedonistic concoctions to come out of a wine bottle. The color is black-purple, shocking Carignan fruit in beautiful balance with tannin. No oak. What this wine lacks in complexity, is more than compensated for by its intensity. Two of us demolished a whole bottle without blinking. In stock and sells for $15.99/14.39. Limited.

Then there is Chateau Massamier '98, Domus Maximus, La Liviniere , 80% Syrah, 20 % Grenache. Impenetrably black, thick, chewy outrageous fruit, round warm tannin. There is nothing like it. $21.99/19.79. Extremely Limited.

Another La Liviniere, (in '98, still plain Minervoise) not to be overlooked is Maris '98, $8.99/8.09-a steal at twice the price.

Cabardes
Cabardes was granted AOC status as recently as July 1999. It lies to the west of Minervoise, and north of the city of Carcassonne on the slopes of the Central Massif. At one time we sold a '94 vintage wine from Cabardes, but I have forgotten what it was like or why I bought it. One Saturday early in May I was offered a wine from Cabardes, and it was explained to me that, here, at the western edge of Languedoc, is where the cool Atlantic and hot Mediterranean climes meet-hot days, cool nights-and here is where, to my amazement, Atlantic grape varietals, Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec, meet Mediterranean varietals, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, and the meeting in this particular bottle is both memorable and confounding. Memorable for incredible quality and value. Confounding, because I have been known to opine that if not Cabernet, then certainly Merlot, have no place in the Midi; not when you have Syrah, Mourvedre Grenache; and that marketing considerations alone must be the reason why any southern wine-maker would use Merlot.

Clos des Romains '99 Cabardes, is 30% Merlot, 20% Cab, 20% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Cot (a.k.a. Malbec). What is more it is aged 100% in New Oak. Bye-bye California, bye-bye Bordeaux! This complex package of fruit, tannin and oak, tied up in a seamless and seemingly endless mouthful of pleasure, sells for a mere $14.99/13.49. I have it all!

St Chinian
Back in March, Domaine Sorteilho '99 St.Chinian-70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 10% Black Carignan, was brought through our back door. A stunning bottle of wine especially given that sells for only $9.99/8.99. Glorious, black fruit literally jumps from the glass and it is laced with all kinds of spice, pepper and tannin. Michael, our warehouse wizard, tasted it with me. "Buy it all! I'll find space!" was his reaction. If you care at all, St Chinian is just east of Minervoise on the same hilly incline to the Central Massif.

Faugeres
Domaine des Olivettes '98, $11.99/10.79, is typical of the fleshy, somewhat rustic wines from the AOC Faugeres, which lies to the east of St. Chinian.

Faugeres of another stripe, is Ch des Estanilles '96, $26.99/24.29. Pricey? Yes! But this 100% Syrah wine is the equal of virtually any northern Rhone wine. It is awesome! My proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. If you are not already sold on Syrah-you will be. Ch Estanilles '97 Faugeres Rose, $26.99/24.29, is all Mourvedre, is exquisite, is expensive, is worth it.

Montpeyroux
Ch Mandagot '98, $!1.99/10.89 comes from Montpeyroux, a small region within the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation. The soil of Montpeyroux and its elevated hill-side vineyards, produce Syrah wines that are very much like some of the northern Rhone wines-a style for which the French have a name-"animal". Such is this wine from Ch Mandagot-inky black with a bouquet that, depending on your previous exposure, you will recognize either as roasted coffee, or "bovine"-the distinct smell of bovine creatures. In the mouth, smoked meats, bacon and a characteristic pepper and spice Syrah finish. Despite your initial impression from this description, or from an initial taste, this is wine that you grow to like. Syrah at its finest. Trust me!

Pic Saint-Loup
The slopes of Pic Saint-Loup, an abrupt mountainous shape that looms up to the north-east of the town of Montpelier, has been a wine-growing area since Roman times. Today it produces some of the finest wines of the south. Truly exciting.

We have no less than four Pic Saint-Loup wines from Ch Lancyre-'98 Haut Terres, $13.99/12.59, an unknown but lovely blend-'98 Vieilles Vignes (old vines and about 90% Syrah), $15.99/14.39-an elegant, smoky, black fruit explosion. Then perhaps the most opulent, juicy Syrah in the store- Lancyre '98 Grand Cuvee Pic St Loup, $27.99/25.19

Our two offerings from Ch La Roque are the regular '98 Pic St-Loup, $12.99/11.69, which needs aeration to show its lovely complex fruit, and which can be cellared for enjoyment through the next ten years, and the '99 Numismae, $19.99/17.994-an opulent mouthful of pure pleasure, named for a Roman coin found in the vineyard.

Clos Montel '98 Pic St-Loup, $12.99/11.69, is the sleeper of the appellation-85% Syrah (and what Syrah it is!), 10% Grenache, 5% Carignan. And last but not least, Ch Valflaunes '98 Pic St-Loup, $17.99/16.99.

Picpoul de Pinet
Languedoc is also home to this ever more popular, all-time best seller. If you have not yet discovered St.Peyre Picpoul de Pinet, $6.99/6.29, you are in a minority, but you have a treat in store. Picpoul, meaning "lip-stinger" is an ancient Languedoc vine, that had, by the 1980's all but disappeared from the sandy coastal vineyards. In 1996, Jancis Robinson, my vinous authority, reported renewed interest in the varietal-1996 was the year of its introduction at MWS. Each vintage has been consistently excellent, as is the new 2000. Its revival and wide appeal can be attributed to the characteristics of the grape itself, to modern wine-making, using cold fermentation in stainless steel and of course its price.

But price alone is never enough of a reason to drink wine. What makes St. Peyre Picpoul irresistible is its delicate bouquet, lemony fruit, fairly full-bodied mouth-feel and crisp, clean tangy finish. Despite the staggering volume we are moving, I have yet to hear anyone say "I'm tired of Picpoul!"

Corbieres
Corbieres is a large appellation at the western edge of Languedoc. It produces many delightful wines offering excellent value. The best current example on our shelves would be Meunier St Louis 98 Corbieres, $8.99/8.09, lovely, light and tasty. Very hard to beat for quality vs value.

Luc Pirlet
Luc Pirlet is not an appellation. He is a person. A one-man wine revolution who produces four of the most extraordinary wines in the store.- Syrah-Mourvedre; Cabernet Sauvignon; Merlot; and Pinot Noir, all at $7.99/7.19. All are from Languedoc, all are an astonishing value

Stars of the South
If there were "First Growths" , they would have to be Mas Daumas Gassac, in Herault, Languedoc, and Domaine Trevellon, in Les Baux, Provence. Both make superb Cabernet/Syrah blends. They are perhaps 50 miles apart geographically, but poles apart as wine-making operations. Mas Daumas is a multi-million dollar, no-expense-spared, show-place. Trevallon is a nuts and bolts, hands-on, husband and wife operation. Both, in part, owe their success to terroir.

They are the equal, in quality, of top Northern Rhones We have at least five vintages of Mas Daumas Gassac and three of Domaine Trevellon. Their prices range from the mid-thirties to the mid-forties. Before you even think of spending anything on a high-flying cult wine, think of these.

Roussillon
Roussillon hugs the Mediterranean coast in the east and rises into the Pyrenees in the south and west. Grenache and Mourvedre are king here, as expressed by the wines of Collioure and Banyuls-produced on terraced slopes plunging down to the ocean just north of the Franco- Spanish border. Collioure wines are big, brash and brawny. Banyuls is France's forgotten wine treasure-big, black alcoholic dessert wine. To sample these eye-openers, I suggest Mas Blanc '98 Moulin Collioure, $33.99/30.59; Parce '97 Cosprons Collioure, $29.99/26.99: Parce "Mas Blanc" '78 Banyuls, $49.99/44.99 and Chapoutier '96 Banyuls (375ml), $19.99/17.99.

Lesquerde '98 George Pous, $12.99/11.69, is classic Roussillon-100% Grenache, and to my amazement, I discovered quite by accident that this wine continues to improve after opening foras long as a week. Aerate! Aerate!

We have three wonderful wines from Domaine Schistes, '94 Les Terrasses, $13.99/12.59, Grenache/Syrah blend; '96 Tradition, $10.99/9.89, and '99 Cuvee Sanglier, $9.99/8.99, 100% Syrah. The latter gets its name from the wild boars ("Sanglier" in French) which love ripe Syrah and have to be driven from the vineyard where these grapes grow. The name "Schistes" comes from the name of the crumbly metamorphic rock found in the Domaine's vineyards.

I cannot omit the robust, glorious wines of Domaine Fontanel; the '96 Priuere, $17.99/16.19; the '96 Tradition, $13.99/12.59, and the stunning '95 Rivesaltes Ambre, $18.99/16.79, a fortified wine to die for.

And finally, Ch de Pena. The mellow '96 will be gone before you read this, to be replaced by the full-flavored, robust '98, $9.99/8.99. Wine for everyday pleasure.

Late last year I was intrigued by a line of wines from New Zealand- "Fat Cat" Chard, "Sour Puss" Semillon, and "Cat Phee" Sauvignon Blanc. The wines were excellent, the labels whimsical, the price was right - $7.99 across the line. There were sceptics-both customers and staff-not the Madison Wine Shop style, not in keeping with our image, couldn't be any good- not at that price and not with those labels. And, as for Fat Cat- an improbable Rick's Pick- Chardonnay, oakey, screwy label-three strikes and out!

But Fat Cat is crisp and light with great Chardonnay fruit and what I call "sweet" oak, although there is no residual sugar. New Zealand isn't exactly round the corner, so last September I ordered what I thought was enough to last until the end of April. Guess what-early January all gone, and angry-I mean angry-customers pounding on the counter and vilifying us as a bunch of bumbling idiots.

Well, Fat Cat is back in stock, a large number of back-orders have been filled, sales have taken off once again and I do not want to run out again. But I am caught between rock and a hard place. If I re-order too soon where in the heck is Michael going to put it?

Good news! We have another Cat. Fat Cat brought along her brother Tom Cat, a Merlot-yes much maligned, much merchandised, mainly miserable Merlot. But there is nothing flabby or tutti-fruity about Tom-he might better have been named Lean Cat. Tom is light and austere, with the most intriguing spicy finish and a bouquet to match. He'll go with any strongly flavored seafood, with bluefish, with paella, with hamburger. I can think of dozens of other dishes that this wine will elevate to a higher plane. Ask me! Only $7.99/7.19! Another New Zealand homer!

The impossible has happened-Rosé is Respectable. Last summer we sold oceans of Fleur de Lys Brut Rosé, $15.99/14.39. To be sure, the package and enticing color are appealing, but once you taste, that's it-you're hooked, but good. This sparkling rosé comes from the Loire valley and it is made entirely of Cabernet Franc, a red grape. The color is an enticing pale pink; it is crisp and zesty-but the flavor-delicate black fruit with wonderful zing in the finish. On a hot summer day it will be memorable with anything you care to toss on the barbeque. It will go with anything you care to have with a picnic or Sunday brunch. And then you might just want to remember it for the Thanksgiving bird.

Then we have a whole selection of still Rose's. Every one is dry, crisp and delicate with a tingly finish. Classic Provencal Rosés are made of Mouvedre, usually characterized by an orange hue and a tangy finish. Those with more of a pink to reddish cast, from Ventoux, Languedoc, Roussillon and Spain are more often Grenache or Grenache/Syrah/ Mourvedre blends.

Bargemone '00, Provence, $10.99/9.89 Highly Recommended
Villerambert '99, Minervois, $9.99/8.09
Ch Estanilles '97 Faugeres, $26.99/24.29
Domaine Tempier '98 Bandol, $23.99/21.59 Estanilles and Tempier are Expensive but Exquisite. Recommended
Rodrejo '99 Jumila, Monastrell, $7.99/7.19
Mas Ste Berthe '99, Provence, $10.99/9.89
Fondreche '00, Ventoux, $11.99/10.79
Grand Cassagne '00, Nimes, $9.99/8.99
Fleur de Lys Brut Rosé, Loire Sparkling, $15.99/14.39

Ch Lancyre '98 Rouvier, $13.99/12.59, from Languedoc. Forget Chardonnay! Try, instead, what are probably the finest southern French white grapes-Roussanne (90%) and Viognier (10%)-with zero oak! Bewitchingly beautiful. There is a hint of gold in the color and the bouquet is haunting, but I cannot put my finger on what it is. In the mouth there is richness, good acidity and wonderful complexity. I pick up hints of the bouquet and hints of the Viognier contribution-peaches and apricots. This is a wine to savor, especially with richer foods, and it improves with age and with aeration as did its predecessor, the '97, of which I still have, in my cellar, a few bottles. Very Highly Recommended

An "Oppidum" is a "slope leading to a fortified high place". Our no-oak twin, Oppidum Chard and Oppidum Viognier, $7.99/7.19, come from such a slope in Enserune, another notable place in the Wine Garden of Eden. Take note of these wines. They are squeaky clean and endowed with lovely, light, varietal fruit and tingly acidity. You will taste Chardonnay and especially Viognier. So much pleasure for so little money!

Another stellar white from an unlikely source, is Ch le Devoy Martine '98 Lirac Blanc, $12.99/11.69. Unlikely because Lirac, in the southern Rhone, is known for its great reds, and this is my first and only white Lirac. The cepage is Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Clairette (which may be none other than ubiquitous Ungi Blanc) in equal proportions. Again no oak. Light, bright and somewhat sharp in the front of the mouth, but wait for the exquisite flavors that creep up on you. A summer wine for lighter foods, especially those from the sea.

Do not forget Eizaguirre '00 Txakoli, $9.99/8.99, the beautiful, bright, almost but not quite bubbly, Basque white wine. Go to Gaetano, in northeast Spain, where the Pyrenees plunge into the Atlantic and where this local wine will be the "icing" on a the seafood feast of a lifetime. If you can't do that, see what the wine will do to your favorite fish from your local market

Lest you accuse me of ignoring home-grown wine, I have two recent, and, from a price/quality viewpoint, decent, Californian labels.

Pepperwood Grove '99 Syrah, $9.99/8.99, is Recommended Other Pepperwood wines will be on our shelves as soon as space opens up.

Mandolin '99, Zin/Merlot, $9.99/8.99, is a delightful, unusual combination, and the Mandolin '99 Chard, $9.99/8.99, gets at least two nods for its lovely fruit and balance and for its judicious oak.

How nice it is to be able, finally, to recommend a superb domestic Cabernet that does not cost an arm and a leg and that is guaranteed to get raves! Go for Snoqualmie '98 Cabernet, $16.99/15.69.

My "Wine of the Millennia" (this and the last millennium), is the Hottest Rick's Pick ever. It is Cour-Cherverny, $13.99/12.59 from Francois Cazin's Le Petit Chambord in the Loire valley, and made entirely from Romoratin, an obscure grape of which I was totally ignorant until March of 1999. In the 2 years since July of 1999 we have sold through the 1995, and 1996 vintages and about sold out of the 1997, with the 1998 waiting in the wings. The wine is remarkable, not only for its consistency, vintage after vintage. It contradicts all the marketing myths that drive the wine business in this country. It enjoys almost universal and enthusiastic acceptance by our customers. If you are unaware of Francis Cazin's Cour-Cheverny you are definitely out-of-the-loop. It is my ultimate shell-fish wine and there is hardly a dish that it doesn't compliment.

In case you ever get tired of the Wine of the Millenia, try its sibling, Cour-Cheverny '98 Cuvee Renaissance, $15.99/14.59. This is a late harvest wine-it has some residual sugar, but it has the same glorious fruit and acidity as the regular Cour Cheverny. If you can over-come a knee-jerk reaction to anything that come across with even a hint of sweetness, you are in for a treat. This is not dessert wine (and I do not believe that "dessert" wine goes with most, or any desserts). Try it with the same seafood you would enjoy with the Wine of the Millenia. See what happens!

Are you bored with cooky-cutter wines? Would you like a hint of what wine is all about?

Take home a bottle of my Wine of the Millennia (above) and a bottle of Clos Habert '98 Demi-sec Mont Louis, $12.99/11.69. Drink them with the same seafood meal, if you wish, but compare them. They could not be more dissimilar, but both are stunning wines that you will come back to again and again.

I beg you, do not be turned off by the slightly sweet entry of the Mont Louis-it is Demi-Sec, or half dry. If you quit at the starting gate you deprive yourself of a glorious taste experience. As that sweetness melts away it is replaced by heavenly Chenin Blanc fruit and bright, tingly acidity. What a one-two punch. See what this does to your favorite seafood and to your center of sensory gratification.

Labels Lie and, usually, I wouldn't be caught dead quoting from one. But this one lives up to its promise. It says:

"Located two hours from the Mediterranean, the best parcels of Finca Casa Castillo are located in the foothills of the Sierra del Molar. The chalky soils of these hills are covered with a deep layer of large gravel and therefore create ideal conditions for the cultivation of Cabernet Sauvignon and Monastrell. The grapes are able to achieve their fullest potential for color and flavor, yet produce very low yields. This results in a very concentrated but rare wine. The deep rich red color hints at the concentration. However it is fully revealed in the plummy berry fruit on the palate and the opulent ripe aromas of black cherries scented with vanilla on the nose. The long well-balanced finish is a result of prolonged maceration and 12 months of ageing in Allier oak barrels. The wine was bottled unfiltered to retain the optimum expression of the fruit"

The wine is Casa Castillo '98 Las Gravas, $17.99/16.79. The simple, but stark, front label showing a gnarled old vine, apparently struggling to produce a hand-full of grapes from rocks, proclaims the secret of this wonderful wine. Minuscule production from stressed old vines. I am told that the production is a mere one ton of grapes per acre, about a third of what is produced in Burgundy for example and maybe a fifth of what is produced in California. The classic wine dichotomy-quality vs quantity. Here, taken to its positive extreme.

The regular Casa Castillo '99 Monastrel, at $9.99/8.99, is Mourvedre at its very best, better than most of the more expensive Mourvedres from Bandol in Provence, and infinitely more approachable. If you want deep, rich, highly extracted wine with warm tannins, this is it.

Pinot Noir

Many of you were as disappointed as I was about the 1998 Louis Latour Pinot Noir, $10.99/9.99, that ran out last December when I found out that I owned (and then angrily disowned) 100 cases of the '99, instead of 100 cases of '98. I thought I had. After searching diligently for a like-priced substitute, of equal quality, I was forced to eat crow and buy back the '99. Those 100 cases are gone and you keep buying. There is no $10.99 Pinot Noir to match it, although we have several, less expensive bottlings that come close.

In today's Wednesday edition of the NYT, Frank Prial writes about Burgundy and its confusing labels. He implies that the right label and a higher price will get you better Burgundy. I disagree. There are abysmal high priced Burgundies and some are chronically so. For example, the formerly, highly reputable firm of Bouchard Pere et Fils made miserable wine for years until it was bought by a man with a mission who poured cash, and talent into the business. Before you get to read this you will get an opportunity to taste their plain Bourgogne '99 Reserve. Well, plain Bourgogne (the lowest appellation) should not be worth $19.99/17.99. But this wine is. With its stunning nose and rich complex fruit there are not many $30 Burgundies that even come close. Wins by a knock-out in the first round.

A "Super Tuscan" is a Tuscan wine, usually from a Chianti producer, that flouts the Appellation Controle rules and has consequently been black-balled. Instead of "Chianti" they are labeled "Tuscan something or other", and usually go for ever escalating Super Prices.

More than a year ago we discovered Conti Contini '96 Sangiovese di Toscana languishing in a distributor's warehouse. Being 100% Sangiovese, it could not, in 1996, be labeled Chianti (the rules have since been changed). Sangiovese often is "leathery" and a little lean in its youth-great with food. This wine on the other hand, while unmistakably Sangiovese, has generous fruit and lovely structure, smoothed out by 4 years of bottle age. Replace this wine's pretty Tuscan label with a traditional one; add a typical "coined " super Tuscan name like "Violia" and you have a wine that, with a little hype, would be snapped up for $60 or $70. I know not, and care not, why this wine was a wall-flower, but it started to move off our shelves. I then wondered how much of it was left-lots was the answer. We grabbed it all. I know nothing of subsequent vintages-we'll cross that bridge when we get there. Meanwhile-Enjoy!

Valpolicella and Amarone are siblings-same vineyards, same grapes-but they are different. Amarone, made from dried late-harvested, dried grapes is much bigger, richer and much more expensive. We have a great selection.

Age Valpolicella, on the lees left in old Amarone barrels and you have Ripassa Valpolicella-a rare treat. Try Zenato '95 Ripassa, $19.99/17.99.

Never heard of it? Neither had I until quite recently. It is also known as Calabrese (perhaps it came from Calabria on the mainland) and is apparently a component of many red Sicilian wines. However, going for broke, 100% Nero d'Avola makes wine that puts Sicily on my map. Try a bottle of Morgante '98 Nero d'Avola, $11.99/10.89 and you will immediately know why.

Jean Laurent, Our House Champagne

Years ago, in disgust with popular sparkling wines, which shall be nameless, I resolved to find an inexpensive sparkling wine that I could recommend with pr