Old, Old Madiera

When we first discovered wonderful old Madiera about seven years ago they were not cheap, but there was a fairly good selection available simply because no one drank the stuff, and no one in his right mind would cook with one- and two-hundred dollar bottles of wine.

Now the pickings are very slim and the prices have gone up. These wines are irreplaceable and within a few years you will only be able to find them at auction. I guess collectors and/or other wine-lovers have discovered them. Madiera is the ideal collectible wine because it is virtually indestructible - it is a fortified wine like port or sherry, but because it has been "cooked" at a temperature of about 120 degrees F it is oxidized and quite stable. Oxidation not only stabilizes the wine but no doubt is responsible for the indescribably rich, complex flavors that can be found in these old wines.

Over the years, I have had an opportunity to taste a few - I will never forget the Gardenia-like bouquet of the Leackock 1900, but it is no more. Prices of recent vintages of Madiera have risen significantly, and while they are very pleasant they cannot compete with the oldies.